Wasp stings, smelly feet and debaucherous Berliners

Last full day in Berlin and as Ben described in his last post, we had our fill of museums from the Pergamon to the Nues and Madelyn and I managed to squeeze in a bit of shopping at the Potsdamer Plaz before it closed.

We now feel like we have mastered the subway in Berlin so we decided to travel to the outskirts of the city to see the Charlottenberg Palace -- the countryside residence of Sophie Charlottenberg the wife of King Fredrick I the first monarchs of Prussia.

We did it! We managed to get out of the apartment, on two subways and a 1 km walk without screaming or blaming anyone for anything. True travel success.

The palace tour was perfect as we had the chance to do a self guided audio tour of the first and second floors before checking out the palace gardens. We didn't pay the 3 Euros to take photos in doors but really most of the stuff in the palace was taken from the Berlin Palace (currently under construction and seen on our bike tour) because almost all of the furnishings were destroyed during World War II. The highlights of the palace tour included all the silver and china used by the Prussian royal inhabitants along with the most stunning pair of diamond earrings and diamond encrusted snuff boxes.

We went out to the gardens to eat lunch. They were massive, but like the palace a bit run down. (We did learn that Berlin's unemployment rate is hovering around 13% so I think palace upkeep is a bit farther down on the to do list. Or maybe my memories of the Versailles Palace are just faded after 25 years. I digress.)

From the gardens we took the subway to Lake Haval. We managed to find a German only speaking guided boat trip that made a circle but cruised on Berlin's main rivers - Haval and Spree. We were served drinks that attracted wasps -- a rampant problem in Europe. Sadly, the sweetest member of our group Madelyn got stung on the boat. They gave her ice and hydrocortisone which mildly helped. But on the bright side our drinks were free!

The last stop of the day had us take the subway across town (we did buy the all day pass!) to the East Berlin Gallery a one mile stretch of the wall painted by artists around the globe from 1990 to 2009 celebrating the fall of communism in Berlin and celebrating freedom and capitalism and of course Levi's the denim  worn by all as the wall was dismantled and redesigned.

From the wall we sought out curry wurst and pomme frites for dinner (and beer) before heading home to re-pack. Sadly, two weeks in my very sporty Puma sneakers without socks has turned my feet into smells worse than the manure we whiffed on the farms of Norway or the swamp smells wafting through the streets of Berlin. And despite rigorous washing nightly they still stink.

Sadly we wanted to finish off our trip with a run around the city in the a.m., but like almost every night our morning came early with loud drunk, glass smashing Berliners outside our window. In customary fashion they woke us up and kept us awake for hours, until they called it a night with some entering our apartment building and others moving along. Sadly sleep over sneakers ruled the morning as we prepared to head off to Prague on the train.

The Pergamon Museum AKA the Pokemon Museum

  Today in Berlin we visited two different museums. The first one we visited (The Pokemon Museum) we  arrived head-to-toe covered in sticky sweat, my dad having the most sweat. But I have to go back to the beginning of the day to tell whole story.

  When the whole family woke up we all had big bowls of Honey Wheats and little yogurt cups with good sounding flavors but weird chunks and horrid tastes. We headed to Potsdamer Platz. When we got there we had a problem with the machine where you buy the tickets and we couldn't get the tickets for at least 10 minuets until we figured out how to work the machine. We hopped on the the train only going two stops away because we had to switch trains. When we left the train we saw that the electronic board that shows you when the next tran was coming said the it would take 9 minutes for the train to come which would put us after the time our Museum tickets said we had to be there by. The family exited the train stain at a brisk walk. My dad checked his iPhone to see where we were going. It said it would take 13 minutes. Every one started sprinting towards the museum. We took about five wrong turns where we had to go back but it was pretty calm since the city was just waking up. We got to the museum in less than 3 minutes! We were still late but the guards let us in looking at us funny because of all the sweat. Everyone got something to take out of the Museums even Madelyn who got about a 20 minute rest in the museum. The day was great we saw amazing things, had lots of laughs and learned many new facts about Egyptian, Babylon, and Roman history and culture. My favorite thing I saw was a video about the different time periods starting way back in time in 80,000 B.C going back up to about 5,000 B.C.

The Day Ben Almost Died

I was told to write a title that would pull people in... Did it work? (Apparently so if you are reading this) Before anyone gets concerned, Ben is fine, but let me get to that part later. 

     Today was our first full day in Berlin, Germany. Since we Francesconi's tend to stick to what we know/what is most pleasing to all five members of the family (an extreme rarity) we embarked on yet another city bike tour. After filling up on fresh baked danishes from a bakery down the street, yogurt, and fruit, we left our apartment to take the conveniently close subway to the heart of Berlin, where the tour was to begin. As per usual, there was a significant debate on which tickets to purchase (aka the most famous Francesconi struggle to find the not only the most practical but also the cheapest option. Please note: this often doesn't exist). Choosing to buy the day pass tickets, we boarded the train and proceeded onward.... Or at least we tried to do so. 

     Once we arrived at our destination, it proved to be much more difficult than we had originally planned to find the group meeting spot. Mom with her iPhone challengedness insisted one way but, after a few minutes of walking, decided she truly "did not know where the blue dot was going" (the iPhone classes by Madelyn & Charlie are still a work in progress). Finally, we found the group by making a few phone calls. Background information: Mom had read that the company offered FREE SUNSCREEN (#momsdreamcometrue #actuallyanyfreestuffisherdreamcometrue #theseareapproximatelyhowlongherhashtagsareoninstagram #instagramisalsoaworkinprogress) and insisted that we find and make use of the free sunscreen privileges before listening to the safety and intro instructions by our guide. Not sure the priorities are straight there. 

     Anyways, we ended up with a tour guide who was originally from Australia, moved to Canada for most of her life, then "visited Berlin for a week (in 2007), fell in love with it, and has been living here ever since." Kate was everything you wanted in a tour guide, funny, upbeat, incredibly intelligent, and very personable. We then embarked on our sightseeing journey through Berlin, passing by the most fascinating landmarks in this "poor but sexy city" (that truly is not only the best city slogan ever, but also the most accurate). As we cycled, we saw the TV Tower, Checkpoint Charlie, the Brandenburg Gate, a section of the Berlin Wall (and a spot where you could stand between both former east and former West Berlin), Hitler's Bunker, a watchtower from when the Berlin Wall was in use, the Luftwaffee Ministry, the Victory Column, the Soviet War Memorial, the Reichstag, Museum Island, Bebelplatz, Topography of Terror, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, a nude park (that was eye opening... or eye closing rather), and finally a small beer garden grill for lunch (pretty sure the drinking age is 16 here but still no luck with the parents). 

    On the final stretch home, we rode on a very busy street (for those B-Gamers out there, think biking on an El-Camino-On-Steriods-esk street) and just as a giant tour bus starts to change lanes, Brilliant Ben (as we often refer to him) decides to cut in front of the bus. Mom, Dad, Charlie and I all watch as the small head (also a loving nickname) disappears. Thankfully, the bus driver took pity on the skinner (there are a lot of loving nicknames. We recognize some of these are not so loving..) And halted to let Ben safely race to the sidewalk. Of course, the event could not be concluded without a lecture from Dad about "the reason why we wear helmets."

      Despite the usual bumps in the road, Fat Tire Bikes helped us to have a very smooth and extremely fun first day in Berlin. Now, it is time for a (non-alcoholic) cheers before another trip on the train since, well, we did buy the day pass, and we can't let our money go to waste...

XOXO, 

Madelyn

 

A Delicious Day Traveling to Berlin

I woke up in the morning at 6:30. I grabbed the coke that I had gotten the night before and guzzled it because it was going to be a great day and I knew it. It started out slow, packing, getting dressed, and brushing teeth. But when we were all packed up and ready to leave we grabbed our complimentary ham sandwiches and booked it outta there! The sandwiches tasted like plastic! On the streets of Oslo we raced to the parking garage watching the sun rise and the city come to life. We sped through the streets reaching the car rental just in time. After going through a billion security measures we boarded our flight (Mom was not too happy about the flight organization). The rest of the day was great. We got on a crazy bus ride and arrived at a super delicious Italian restaurant. We then walked to our final destination, our apartment! It is awsome! The apartment has a flat screen TV and floors that are like an ice rink for sliding on! Today was AMAZING!

Biking with Viking Spirits in Oslo

It's past midnight and we've got an early flight to Berlin in the morning. Tonight's sleep should be better, with only the dull hum of TGI Fridays below and the street cleaners whirring down Karl Johan's Gate in preparation for the nation of Norway's return to work after their three-week "holiday."  A bit of rain today also helped cool things off. 

Beth was kind enough not to mention my need for a bit of "cooling off" during last night's harried arrival into Oslo. As always, by the grace we all deserve, my family allowed me to steam, stew and cool (and apologize). Then we move on together...

Which brings me to "Viking Biking"!  A tip from a friend of Beth's solved our quandary about how to use a precious 24 hours in Oslo. As their website explains: "After hiking and biking through countless countries, the founders of Viking Biking had a vision of a more dynamic way to visit Oslo." With abundant ease (what the heck did my parents do without iPhones?!?) we booked our city bicycle tour, I donned the Viking horns (a "YOLO" moment Madelyn might have preferred I skip - after viewing the photos, your vote of "support" will be welcomed) and we headed out under slightly stormy skies to confirm once again that pedal power is a fantastic means by which to learn what a town is all about. 

Our Viking guide was a cheerful, bright, politely-opinionated and VERY Norwegian woman named Tuva.  In a bit over 3 hours (yes, a three hour tour) she gave us a glimpse of Oslo's 1,000 year history and a sense of where this city stands today, still somewhat segregated between the more well-off and the working/"artsy" sides of the Akerselva River which divides the city between the touristy and posher residents of the west and the more grunge east. As we road past a light crowd of tourists stymied by the rain and more than a few locals on what appeared to be their version of "bike-share" we visited the ancient Akershus Fortress Castle (intertwined today with Norway's Ministry of Defense), City Hall, the National Theatre, the Royal Palace and a vast park/garden known as the Vigeland Sculpture Park. The last was a real treat as we played around with impersonating our favorite of Gustav Vigeland's many sculptures which the city commissioned to adorn this once private land amidst a bustling city. Check out these photos! 

The early "day" (8'ish) ended with a fabulous pizza dinner at our Viking Biking tour guide's favorite spot over on the east side of the city. The walk home afforded us a chance stroll through the cemetery where Henrik Ibsen and Edvard Munch are buried; an interesting connection to the art that still fuels this city's vibe. 

Of course, with just a few kroner left, we headed back out to the very-hopping wharf district for one last ice cream and a toast to Norway around 10pm.  

As I captured my last photo of the Castle at dusk (10:30) I realized we've had an ideal experience of Norway, both country and city life and culture. Each of us has voiced a desire to stay longer balanced equally by excitement for the next adventure. I can't thank my parents enough for the work it took to plan and execute such experiences for my siblings and me (without iPhones!). And words won't express the joy it feels to hear how much my family has enjoyed breathtaking scenery, ancient history, art that endures ages all while putting up with me and my occasionally ;-) stressed temperament. Maybe there was some magic in that bicycle helmet that gave us a bit of Viking spirit: onward we go - together. 

Things I learned about in Norway

1. Crocs are acceptable and the chosen footwear for Norwegians.

2. It is okay to swim in your chonies (undies) if you are five or fifty.

3. People grocery shop everyday like its an impending St. Louis snowstorm and the grocery store runs out of bread, milk and eggs by 4 p.m.

4. In Norway it's no shirt no problem so  Ben and Gary ate many meals - shirtless.

5. You can't buy beer after 8 pm M-F, 6 pm on Saturday and it isn't available for purchase on Sunday except at bars and cafés.

6. Softies are the best ice cream and the Esso gas station in Oystese had the best toppings.

7. Having the sun rise at 4 am and set at 10:30 pm is as great as I thought it would be.

8. Swimming in a fjord with lightly salted but essentially lake water is the best open swimming possible.

9. The Rima 1000 is pronounced Rema tussin not Rema one thousand.

10. Knute Rockne the greatest football coach ever was Norwegian, born in Voss and emigrated to the U.S and a statue has been erected in his honor in Voss. I did not get to see the statue, so I will need to come back to see it.

Ferries, glaciers and hedonism

Sadly our week at the Hardangerfjord came to an end. We celebrated our last night with Katerine and Darrin parents of the cutest four Norwegian boys and crab obsessed fishermen while the kids watched "Bad Grandpa" with Norwegian subtitles in our tiny cabin living room. After the movie started, Gary and I drove to the Rema 1000 to buy a couple tall beers. Guess what? The county stops selling alcohol at 8 pm and we were there at 8:10 pm. Thanks to Darrin who gave me his last Carlsburg beer to toast our last night.

Google said our trek across Norway would take 8 hours. I never believe Google but I should the Norwegian roads are the slowest two lane highways on the planet. Idyllic - yes, fast - never. So we decided to take a few public ferries across two different fjords on to Jondal and another to Kirksand to get across Norway and we decided to throw in a quick trip to see the third largest glacier along the way. The glacier is covered in snow with iced blue splotches peering out. After a few quick shots we motored through cherry and apple farms along the fjords in search of the cider making Mr. Apple. We found his farm and van but he was nowhere to give us a tour . So we drove on for hours over the mountains and through thunderstorms and finally arrived at Oslo around 10 pm. 

Driving into Oslo was madness. The street where our hotel was located is closed down for foot traffic. Trying to find the place consisted of screaming at each other, yelling at Google and running in and out of the lobby to find a place to park. We secured a spot and dragged our roller bags five blocks on cobblestone streets to the Karl Johann III hotel also known as the Best Western. What happened from 11 pm until about 5 am was just pure partying magnified by our balcony door being open since the temps are over 80 degrees and nothing is air conditioned. Car crashes, screaming, blaring music - you name it and we heard it. And it really never cooled down. So night one felt a bit like Dante's journey in the Inferno.

    

Birthdays in foreign lands

It is thirty years to the day that I celebrated my sixteenth birthday in four states. In 1984, we drove from California to Chicago to celebrate my then great grandmother's birthday. The seven of us -- my mom and dad along with my four siblings -- Katie, Megan, Peter, and Tommy piled into our brand new Dodge Ram van tripped out with a sofa bed couch, removable table, and individual lighting and traveled the southern route on Route 66 stopping to see sights like the Grand Canyon and the St. Louis Arch. We spent a month in Elkart, Indiana swimming in the lake, heading to Summerfest ( I hung out with the Violent Femmes) and trying to spy Paul Newman at the race track. Our drive home took us on the Northern route through the Black Hills, the Mitchell Corn Palace, Wall Drug and to the Old Faithful Geyser in Yellowstone National Park. The trip was incredible but most memorable was arriving in our motel in Utah with a sign that read Happy Sweet 16 Beth! My dad called ahead to be sure the milestone event was properly recorded.

 So here I am three decades later away from home celebrating this gift called life only now I am taking my children on a trip of a lifetime. They have made a bunch of Norwegian friends on our fjord and they are riding bikes to buy chocolate and movies, they are swimming in the chilly waters of the North Sea and they are helping me celebrate another year on this Earth.

( As a kid you don't want a summer birthday because everyone is on vacation and there is no one around to celebrate. But as an adult summer birthdays are the best because when the days are long and the weeks are filled with adventure it's like a 24 hour present.)

So we celebrated the day by drinking espresso at the Hotel Thor while doing our laundry at the boathouse. We cooked fresh prawns caught from the North Sea for dinner and I was serenaded by ten Norwegian kids singing happy birthday in their native tongue. A perfect way to celebrate -- thirty years later.

Big ships in Bergen

Today was amazing I got to climb a towering waterfall and see huge ships that were more that 60 feet long! The day started with a long strenuous car ride to the waterfall in Steinsdalsfossen. When we arrived I was met with the sight of a GIANT waterfall and I knew I HAD to climb it. I sprinted out of the car and started climbing. I was so fast that my family couldn't even come close to where I was climbing. Only when I took a rest was my dad able to catch up to me. Then my dad positioned the camera just perfectly so we could take a self timer photo. Then we all climbed into the car and headed for Bergen. On the way we stopped for some delicious Softies with very interesting toppings. The softies worked well to cool us off after the car ride. When we arrived in Bergen I was amazed to see tall sails stretching over the horizon. My jaw dropped when I looked under water and saw that one of the boats propellers was tall as me! The best part was the candy. On one of the boats there was a ton of candy! So I grabbed the candy and ran back to the car. We drove off onto the sunset munching on Carmel candies, it was an epic day in Norway!