Behind the Blog - Shout Out to Beth for this e-keepsake

We're just over twelve hours from departing Croatia. Through a weird assortment of flights, with a bit of luck, we'll arrive in Zurich late tomorrow afternoon (already signed up for one more bike tour!). The boys are busily packing their suitcases for about the 20th (but second-to-last) time. And Beth and Madelyn just couldn't let the sun go down before making one last trip to the beach; this, despite the fact that we spent a day "at sea" in our own, tiny "rent-a-boat" (barely more than a bathtub with a motor attached, but what fun!!!) --pictures and more posts will follow....  For now, I just want to post one photo (I've taken over 2,000) to say thanks to Beth for all her early mornings and -- frankly -- constant nagging since the day we hit the road about this blog. I'm sure I'll love this little 30-day history of our trip for many many years to come and it simply would not have happened without Beth's drive (nagging) and commitment. Believe it or not (I'm still trying to convince her), that's one of the reasons I love her (that, plus the simple fact that she puts up with me...). If any of you are still reading, here's a glimpse of what's gone on behind the scenes since July 17th:

Just a few fun photos...

Bike rides best fueled with gelato...

Olives...

Long day's ride ends with fancy hotel water slide:

Grappa = friendship. 

A break from biking and walking... (Look closely and you might see Beth & Ben

yelling at each other in a distant kayak!). 

We're gonna need a caption contest for this one...

Abandon ship!!

A flat (and a bump) on the trail...

Fashion by H&M (regular readers -- both of you -- will remember that these duds were purchased for opera in Vienna):

Živjeli! ("schee-va-lee") A final toast from our terrific Backroads guides (Saverio, middle, prefers: salute!). 

A quick self-timer to document a last day of rock jumping into the sea...

Am I in heaven?

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Our Last week in Europe is so bittersweet. I've learned so much over the past five weeks. I feel so guilty about dragging my feet to go on this trip. Dick Ward taught us all - two things worthy of spending money - education and trips. How lucky are we to get both?

Today was a packed Croatian mass at 8 am. Happily the communion free for all still continues. And lucky for the church the steps drop right into a cafe so they don't have to foot the bill for coffee and donuts like St. Catherine's.

We had a full day at the rocky beach. Water is warm but super salty and bathing tops 
are always optional.

Gary cooked pasta with homemade sauce and we went into Cavatat to hear a women's choir and eat banana split ice cream sundaes.

I am really going to miss this place.

Escape from Dubrovnik Walter Mitty Style

The end of Backroads pampering (and very action-packed schedules) came quite abruptly.  We enjoyed a fantastic, sea-front cocktail party and terrace dinner with our new Backroads friends yesterday evening before taking a quick historical tour of the old city of Dubrovnik this morning. If you're a Game of Thrones fan (which I'm not but may have to grab the books and check this out), you already love this city. I still marvel at the feats of construction it must have taken to raise fortresses of the magnitude we saw in the "Old City" and, unfortunately, the callous disregard for life and history that was employed to almost destroy it not so long ago. 

Literally midway around the fortress wall walk -- an ominously storm-laden sky hanging overhead amidst 99% humidity -- our friends we called "guides" several days ago announced it was time to say goodbye. Hugs and just a couple happy tears later, we were back in our "premier" hotel ready to check out but already switching back to survival mode -- "should we take this bar of soap?" "Some body make one more run to the 'exec lounge' and snag a few juices and some fruit" and, of course, "who has room in their suitcase for a roll of T.P.?... who knows what supplies we'll have at the next place."

Time to escape Dubrovnik as the massive (really massive!) cruise ships unloaded. Just an hour before we walked relatively easily through the streets of the old town. Now, noon, thousands of people were ambling along in numbered groups behind tour guides with correspondingly numbered placards. From our tippy toes we kept track of each other now and again as we rolled our 5-weeks' belongings toward the "water taxi."

In and around this city the locals assume full-fledged entrepreneur mode for their three months of tourism ("we are open all the time, every day...").  Multiple souvenir stand owners step in front of you to grab their chance for a sale; restaraunt hosts/waiters likewise pull you toward their tables to showcase their offerings and convince you it's time to eat (again); and on approach to the water taxi dock separate salespeople shout "come on, the boat is leaving now."  Exchange a quick wad of Kuna, hand over our bags, and we board a boat loaded with French, British, and Italian families (no others have luggage) toward Cavtat (pronounce "sowv-tat"). 

Those who have seen The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, will best appreciate this latest experience with public transit. The only difference between Walter and me was that I didn't know before I boarded that my pilot was drinking and I only learned mid-voyage that his copilot served as his beer holder (large plastic bottles of Ožujsko sold everywhere - good stuff) throughout. Other than that, we shared with Walter the cold splashes of sea water as our craft crashed down after peaking each wave and the occasional realization that this could end poorly. To a degree, it was like a Disney ride on a central line of steroids. Nose up, DOWN, CRASH, spray, the stern seems to pivot under you gliding into position for the next nose UP.... For 40 minutes this continues, the entire time our Captain has his flip flops up as if he's seen that nozzle spray the tourists hour after hour, day after day for months in this humid Orlando heat... Oops Cavtat, Croatia. For the first 10 minutes it was surprising and a bit funny; the next 15 progressed toward uncomfortable, soaking wet for a certain side of the passengers, and a little scary at times; then it transitioned to sickening (palms out, fingers spread, I had signaled "10 minutes more" to Madelyn over 20 minutes ago -- now she looked green). Pulling into our dock the right half of my face was drenched and begining to crust over with the heavy salt that is typical of the Adriatic water. 

Compared to all that our first steps on dry land were like docking at Fantasy Island (moms, dads, old folks: please explain to the youngins'). Our AirBNB host, Ana, met us at the dock, carried our bags to her car and drove us about 100 yards to our apartment, which is small but perfect and air conditioned (sort of). The town is small, friendly and beautiful -- see view from our balcony -- and we don't have anywhere to be for four days. 

A real life Marco (Polo) rescue operation

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Readers (I think we are up to 10 now beside my mom and mother in law!) I realize I am behind in posting but our Backroads camp counselors keep us on a tight schedule and maximize all potential time on the islands (which I love) but it leaves very little time for my ongoing mindless drivel.

Our Wednesday on the islands was incredible. We took a small boat from Havr to the spot where we would begin our sea kayaking. I should have known I was in trouble as I recalled the question and answer session I had with Ben the night before. It went like this: Hey Ben if you were stranded on a desert island who would you rather be with me or Dad? He didn't hesitate for a second and  said Dad. I was floored....wasn't I the fun factor with this guy? I asked why and he said Dad can survive anywhere and noted that I hate to camp. He was right I hate to camp and my survival skills have been gleaned from my mother - when in trouble use a credit card. That's been my advice for all my kids - carry plastic and you can get out of anything. :)

Okay so you have the long set up for this brief adventure. Ben and I decide we will be partners in this sea kayak activity. We listened carefully to the instructions and got in the kayak. Our guide's name was Marco and he kept a sharp eye on our group which he should as the seas were really rough, the wind was very strong and we were kayaking through a very busy channel.

Ben and I got off to a strong start. I thought we were doing great until Marco's assistant told me that she saw me paddling backward so I knew I was in trouble. But things were good, we were working hard to paddle, but we had a rhythm and we kept up with the group. Ben felt so good he jumped out of the boat and floated by the kayak.

Over confidence is never a good thing.

We headed toward choppy waters, a strong current and serious head winds. I jumped into leadership mode. I started screaming at Ben listing all the things he needed to do to get us on track. At first he started screaming back his own set of instructions and announced to our group how awful it was having me yell at him. The seas got rougher and the wind picked up and were headed out to the ocean. I was now yelling at full volume at Ben. Poor thing turned around for a split second with tears streaming down his face and asked me to stop screaming at him. We were in trouble.

Marco to the rescue! Our capable guide charged the wind and water shouting you look like you have lost control and I will help you. He hooked his kayak to Ben and I and paddled us to safe waters. We spent the rest of our morning attached to Marco's kayak and safely paddled around the island. (Ben was able to take a few breaks between the two of us repeatedly thanking Marco (Polo) for his rescue.)

After lunch our capable Italian leader Save (pictured below) led us to our 100 year old boat for a cruise on the Adriatic Sea where we spent the afternoon jumping off the second floor of the boat into the clear green blue water.

Jumping off the boat was a blast (pics to come they are on our iPad).

We quickly changed our clothes and left the kids behind to have an adult dinner with a very famous retired Croatian singer -Tony. He was very famous in the 80s and you can find him on YouTube. (I couldn't but our tour group could.) This night was very special as he sang with our two Slovinian leaders - Petra and Anja. (Blogger won't let me post videos so you have to come see me to watch the video but Tony is featured at the top of the blog and Petra made the group shot below she is the third person on the left.)

Backroads Trips - it is like family camp with nice hotels, great food and non stop activities

Guess what? We still have wifi. So the blog continues.

I have made references to in earlier parts of this blog that this part of the trip has been organized by Backroads a Berkeley organization that orchestrates "active" trips for individuals and families all around the world. Really, this has turned out to be like family camp where we get write ups delivered to our room the night before with the itinerary of where we meet the next day, what time our meals happen, what events will take place for the day and what to wear and bring for the next day. We have group meetings at the start of the day, we fill our snack bags with energy food to get us through the events. And then we go off and have an amazing day biking or hiking (or today we are kayaking) around the islands.

Of course since this is like family camp we have other campers -- two families from Connecticut and another family from Menlo Park, California. This has turned out to be one of the many advantages of having this tacked on to the end of our adventures. (That and I went on strike from cooking and grocery shopping.) We also have four leaders - one from Oregon, one from Italy, and two from Slovenia and they encourage us to participate in the events, they motivate you with some of the athletic challenges, they transfer and haul bikes and bags, they pay the bills and they tell you where to go and what to do. Each one is friendly, smart, enthusiastic and speaks more languages than our combined family camp. (Well maybe not but the Slovenia girls speak about five languages.)

So that gives you a sense of the structure. We also are on the move exploring islands along the Dalmation coast with our fellow campers. That has meant getting our bags and bodies out the door at 7:15 am for the past two mornings. For some reason Gary has now decided being on time is important and required. (We've done okay so far but I am not sure the kids will recover from his militant new approach to being on time. I digress.)

Our first day involved biking about 26 miles over some steep terrain on Brac Island. Brac is the largest island. The organization sets up kid and adult starting points which is smart as I think Ben would either kill himself trying these rides or forever hate biking. (There is a van that will pick you up if you need a ride but so far no one in the house has used this options.) Along the ride (after lunch or at other spots) you can leave to go back to the hotel to swim or relax before dinner. We even have the chance to stop and run into the Adriatic Sea in our bike clothes to enjoy a swim along the ride.

Our second day involved a seven mile hike in the rocky, rough terrain of the second island known as Hvar second longest island on the coast. We witnessed the process of making lavender oil which involves one man standing in a vat stomping on the flowers in the intense heat while they pressed it into oil. It looked like back breaking work. Even Madelyn thought it was harder work than summer camp counseling at Safari Run. (Just kidding Jodie.)

Still on Hvar, our third day brought us back to the bikes for a 70 kilometer/40 mile bike ride. This time Charlie and Madelyn opted to start at the beginning and tackle some tough climbs before meeting Ben at the top with some of the rest of our group. They were troopers - no complaining, serious riding. When I was 16 and 14, I never did anything like that and if it were something close to athletics with my family, Dick Ward would vouch for my endless whining throughout the event.

After lunch the entire group minus two of our leaders and myself and another camper from Connecticut did the ride back. We rode the same route we completed in the morning. Our friend Rob Lawson once told Gary - never double back. It's good advice for someone like Rob who bikes all the time. However, this was my chance to tackle a few hills (really people these were mountains) and complete a 40 mile bike ride. Fortunately I had my personal coach to inspire me along the way. The other two riders completed the ride back in 45 minutes. It took us (me) an hour and a half. It was brutally hot and I'd never biked that distance in my life. Fortunately, my coach George was willing to stop three times and pull off for water and banana breaks. She gave me some great advice which sounded oddly like the Lamaze classes I took 16 years ago - focus on your breathing, relax, keep your eye on the prize and most importantly - bikini butt. (Given the amazing butts I have seen on every woman in Croatia this was critical.) We made it to the highest point and sailed all the way down the hill.

This story doesn't end with a boring low gear charge down the hill. George knew the very last part of the ride involved the steepest climb of the ride through the arches of Havr. So to save her poor pupil she took me down a one way street to avoid the hill. Sadly we whizzed right by two Croatian cops who stopped us immediately. They asked for our driver's licenses or ID. I had nothing on me. George sprung into action. He explained that he was my guide and I was following him. The cop asked if we spoke Croatian and why didn't we. The young cop launched into a long speech about our illegal actions of running stop signs (not sure how since we were entering a one way street) he then explained our fines would be doubled because we both did it and a bunch of other violations that would cost us 3500 kuna or over 650 USD in traffic tickets. George sprung into action, talked our way out of the tickets, scored the name of the cop (he looked 17) and in the end he told us not to forget him - Tom - or as his grandfather calls him - Tommy Lee Jones.

Sadly I had to ride the massive hill to get back (why couldn't we walk our bikes down the one way hill?) And made it back to a refreshing (you guessed it beer and juice fest.) So dear readers after learning of all these adventures does this sound to you like your summer camp days? Let me know your stories in the comments.  


   

Happy Birthdays and request for trip refund

Today is August 10th and 34 years ago my littlest brother arrived to extend our motley crew to seven...that's right a household of five kids, two parents and a cat (for awhile...).

Every summer we celebrated my brother Tommy's birthday at Newport Beach in Southern California at Chili's restaurant and my parents best friends the Foglianis joined us. This year, like many now that we've grown, I won't be with Tommy to celebrate. But I want to use this as a public service announcement to say Happy Birthday bro and I owe you a Mississippi Mud Pie when we reunite.

Now for the return money. Gary handed the reins over to our Backroads Tour Guides as we boarded a 100 year old boat from Split and headed off to our first island. People let me tell you ever since these guys have taken over I haven't had to lift a finger except to fill my water bottle. If I knew life could be this good I would have skipped Norway, Berlin, Vienna, Prague to get to this point! I demand a refund from the map reading, subway wandering, grocery shopping, meal prep and laundry. 

JUST KIDDING!!!!

Seriously though this part of the gig is the bomb. I had a snack pack with peanut m&m's, three square meals made with vegetables picked out of Croatian gardens, a 40 k bike ride with views of the Adriatic Sea and I narrowly missed a full front face plant off my bike going a speed of at least 40 mph.

Now if I could just get some content from the rest of my editorial staff I would be in great shape. Any requests for writers or subject matters? Leave a note in the comments.